Culture Club City

A new club opened in San Francisco, called The Battery. It's on my walk to work, and I see the valet team ready from the early morning until late at night. This city has lots of clubs; clubs for drinkers, dancers, smokers, swimmers, athletes, triathletes, watercolorists, culture vultures. Most clubs occupy a storefront, or have a floor in an office building, like the American Institute of Architects' San Francisco Chapter, or the Commonwealth Club. A century ago, prominent clubs erected their own buildings, and the Union Square / Lower Nob hill area has a concentration of them.

The Mechanic's Institute Library at the bottom of Post Street is a favorite - they host literary events and chess classes and have a nice reading room. The building is a nice stone commercial building, in a basic classical composition with a rusticated base, middle library floors with a colonnade, and a top with a good cornice. A few blocks up Post Street, beyond Union Square, is a former Elks Lodge, part of a 20 story stone mixed-use building.

Other clubs have buildings that follow the character of an Italian palazzo, in scale from domestic to grand.  On Sutter Street, there's the Francisca Club, a 3-story brick building on the domestic scale, almost Colonial in manner. Nearby is the former Women's Athletic Club (1917) - now the Metropolitan Club - a handsome brick facade with large arched windows signifying the main rooms and a two-story colonnade and protruding cornice as a capping. Next door is the more modest former YMCA building, now a college dormitory.

Like the Women's Athletic Club, many of these buildings hint at a great room. Usually a row of grand windows - often arched - tells you where it is...leaving its exact size and shape and decoration to the imagination, except at night when the interiors begin to be revealed.

Back down on Post Street, between Mason and Taylor Streets, there's a pair of clubs that make a great urban composition - the Olympic Club and the Bohemian Club. I used to think they were rival clubs but they're complimentary, the Olympic for sporting, the Bohemian for socializing. Whereas the Olympic Club is a confident if normative classical composition of beige brick and limestone, the Bohemian Club is much more unique. At some indeterminate point in the spectrum between Arts and Crafts and Art Deco, this 1933 palazzo has thick walls of red brick that are opened up with a silent order of window bays, dressed more with articulating layered brickwork that with minimal amounts of light stone. The corner site perfectly profiles the uppermost two-story colonnade of brick pilasters, marching at a rhythm unique from the great window bays below. The ornamental program includes sculpted square keystone blocks over the windows and main doorways, and the club's Owl is a recurring motif, most notably in the frieze topping the structure.

The recently opened Battery is housed in an old brick warehouse building, without particular distinction, in the historic waterfront district. Will the Battery's members of city elites tire of this old shell and opt for a new contemporary building expressing its time? For now, the structure is just a framework for their collegial exchange of cultural and culinary services. Only time will tell if the members prefer their dining room at street level, behind frosted glass, or raised to a piano nobile, with views of the Bay and the world beyond their valet team.

Modern Nature: Georgia O'Keeffe at the deYoung Museum

There was a good crowd at the deYoung Museum on the first great and beautiful Saturday afternoon of the year. Skipping St. Patrick's Day weekend revelries, the crowd of more young women than normal casually congregated to take in a showing of work by Georgia O'Keeffe (1887-1986, born the same year as Le Corbusier). The exhibit

Modern Nature: Georgia O'Keeffe and Lake George encompassed her work from her time spent around Lake George in upstate New York in the 1920's and 1930's at family estate of her husband Alfred Stieglitz, the renowned photographer and gallerist. Lake George was the like the Lake District of northwest England, where lucky artists went to escape the economic world and capture nature in their work.

Her portraits were not of famous or wealthy people but of trees and barns and leaves, painting them with the intimacy and expressiveness normally saved for the human face. Most of the works were beautiful and lush, flowing shapes of powerfully mixed dark and light colors. The game of chiaroscuro deftly employed to describe nature's bounty. Georgia O'Keeffe is a legendary modernist painter but at the end of the day, she is a genre painter, like Picasso - her works are mostly landscapes and still lifes, with flowers and garden vegetables and dramatic views. What John James Audubon was to birds, and Giorgio Morandi to glass bottles, so O'Keeffe is to flowers. And to me that is great company, and an accomplished life.

More work from the exhibit, HERE.

Gold and Agriculture: California's Economic Engines

From the Bay Area to the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, it's a short drive across the Central valley, and the economic history of Northern California is laid bare. Leaving San Francisco via I-80, you emerge past the Oakland Hills and into the Central Valley, a mixture of agricultural fields and suburban office parks, where land is cheap, buildings sparser and car miles driven accumulate.

The Central Valley has pleasant weather year round - great weather, really. It provides this farmland to the world with 2-3 growing cycles per year. Times have been rough lately, with the current three-year worst-in-a-century drought, labor shortages due to the immigration clampdown, and tough environmental laws. Any romantic connection you may be inclined to have, from reading too much Hemingway or Kerouac, should be suppressed immediately.

In the lowland of the Sacramento Delta, Tahoe traffic fills the roads between Thursday night and Monday morning. You can stop off in Davis, home of the UC Davis Aggies. Davis is a pleasant little town with shady retail offerings, gracious sidewalks, a slow pace, lots of bikers and a lovely central green with a small corner building housing the U.S. Bicycling Hall of Fame.

Beyond Davis, The highway leads northeast around Sacramento and into the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, where the discovery of gold in the late 1840's shaped nearly a century of California history, building towns, driving immigration and making San Francisco the financial and cultural capital of western America, with iron high rise buildings and banks backed by every country along the Pacific rim.

A small group of gold rush era towns are known as the “gold chain”. Nevada City sits in this area, by Deer Creek. The City of Nevada City is a very small town with about 3,100 residents, down from 10,000 in 1870. The small downtown area, 2 blocks wide and 4 blocks long, slopes down hill, southeast, to Deer Creek. The buildings tend to be wood Victorians, some quite expressive, with some brick commercial buildings mixed in. The front porches of the houses transition to colonnades at the shops and century-old hotels. Vestiges of Nevada City's former prominence as a County Seat can easily be found - there's a Masonic Lodge, an Odd Fellows Hall, a couple of theaters, and more saloons than Dublin. Even an historic small Chinese quarter. Believe it or not, this town has 4 bookstores! Which is more than downtown San Francisco…  

 

Today, the town is a center for the local food / slow food movements, and a weekend getaway town for people from the Bay Area, Sacramento region, Reno, and other Central Valley locales. The real relic of the town’s legacy if the closed Empire Mine, just out of town, which is now reopened as a California State Historic Park.

To round out a weekend road trip we stopped in Chico, not really on the way but not too far either. Home of CSU Chico, it’s very similar to Davis and other small California towns with pleasant weather, a decent historic downtown centered on a plaza, and most importantly a college and all that comes with it. Not too many scholars were about town this holiday weekend, so it still had a mid-winter vibe, with a low sun, long shadows, youngish guys in shorts and a group of veterans congregating in the plaza.

 

David Hockney - How Much Art Can One Man Make?

David Hockney is one of the best known artists in the world. An artist for 5 decades, the English painter is absurdly prolific. Born in 1937, he has shown no signs of slowing down. Over the last few years, he's composed an extended series of works depicting the English landscape, a personal yet expansive view that has probably not been equaled since the heydays of the mid-19th century Royal Academy and Ecole des Beaux-Artes.   

 

These last few years of work are chronicled in a show ending soon at the deYoung Memorial Museum in San Francisco, called "A Bigger Exhibition". The show primarily features Hockney's genre artwork. He works in the historic, well-established genres of landscape and portraiture. Other key genres are still life, history and "Bible", though these are rare territory for Hockney.

This exhibition included digital films, drawings in pencil and charcoal, and paintings in watercolor, acrylic and oil. Hockney is prolific in all of these -  he calls the films cubist, and the portraits are impressive too - but it is the multi-year dedication to depicting the English landscape that leaves the viewer absolutely engrossed, engaged and completely immersed. An over-arching theme for the painter is depicting the passage of time. On several groups of pieces, he draws or paints the same landscape scene over 4 different seasons - winter, spring, summer, fall - or he'll show the emergence of a season, as spring bursts from February to May. The works range from intimate 18" x 24" sheets, often done in series, to monumental pieces of 32 canvases arranged edge-to-edge, four up by eight across.

 

The draughtsmanship is that of a seasoned master, confident across any medium, oil to iPad. Through the work, we are always reminded that we are looking at an interpretation, at a translation. These images are representations of nature as filtered through the artist's mind and skilled, guided hand. The colors are stunning, playful, almost obscene at times. Trees are purple and green and yellow and tangerine. Leaves are blue and black and white. These landscapes are electric with their neon colors and their vibration and their whimsy and their depth. 

A glass vitrine full of his sketchbooks also showed that he draws all the time. On the plane, at the dinner table, at the café, on the porch. He uses pencils, pens, markers, crayons, charcoal, watercolors, acrylic paint, oil paint. And most recently, since 2010, he's taken to drawing on his phone and iPad. He does great work with these digital tools, too. 

It would of been great to see some of this work in day-lit galleries, but the deYoung's new building, completed in 2005, did not include the natural lighting of artwork as a design feature - most museums don't, and that's a loss for us all. Hopefully the next generation of museums will do better.

At the exhibition, there were 2 rooms full of work that he had executed since the summer, after the work that was supposed to be the subject of the exhibition was already done. He draws more in a week than most people draw in a lifetime. My wife insists that he is so prolific because that is what he does. He is an artist. That is his occupation, his job. He does it all day, every day. And I agree.

For Christmas, my mom gave me a little book call Daily Rituals, which looks at the daily routines of artists and other creative people. The book begins with this table from Ben Franklin, of his ideal day - note that there's still 8 hours of proper "work" and 7 hours of sleep.  Happily he seemed to have no commute time!

 

 

 

For Hockney, he's cleary and artist with no other day job. He draws and paints all day. It's the same for some writers, who are known to methodically write, say, 5,000 words per day. It is their routine, which they follow methodically, whether they are feeling particularly creative – in the mood - or not.

But some of us paint after hours, after our daytime work. We're not dilettantes, it's simply that we have many passions, an some help pay the mortgage, while others are payless passions, that we pursue after hours, for little or no compensation. We act, write, create, paint, draw for the pleasure and the challenge and the pursuit offered by the creative process itself. We write plays, draw maps, make jewelry, teach, design furniture. You may find us on Esty.com, or at holiday craft fairs, or autumn open studios events. Here you will find our second selves, the other sides of us that battle with the day-job side. But we are not two-faced, we are Janus faced, two (or more) sides of complex people.

I am thankful that David Hockney pays his mortgage by painting!

Collages for Los Angeles

Two collages made following a weekend in Los Angeles, with visits to the James Turrell exhibition at the LACMA and the Huntington Art Gallery and Library.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!!

Newport at Full Scale

Newport , RI, is one in the oldest cities in the country, and no doubt one of its most beautiful. Founded in 1639, it has the country's oldest synagogue and its first free black church. For almost 300 years it has been a summertime destination for east coast families. Boating, turn of the century mansions, recreation and partying - this is what Newport is known for.

It's original colonial era street pattern, public buildings and private dwellings have lasting appeal. Fine classical works include the Touro Synagogue, the Redwood Library (one if the oldest lending libraries in America) and the Brick Market.  

Besides its collection of narrow streets, downtown Newport has two important public spaces, Washington Square and Queen Anne Square. Civic buildings surround Washington Square, the city’s original public space – including the brick market (now a Newport History Museum), the Colony House, and the Courthouse, as well as a group of banks, hotels and a theatre. Queen Anne Square emerged more recently, in the 1970’s at the behest of Doris Duke. The square is anchored by Trinity Church, whose current building dates from 1726. Built in a classical design, it closely models in wood the masonry designs that Englishman Christopher Wren built around London in the late 17th century. Queen Anne Square has recently been refurbished and reopened this year also had some modest garden wall elements designed by Maya Lin, who famously designed the Vietnam Veterans Memorial as a college student.

 

Bellevue Avenue extends west and south from Newport's historic downtown, and it is along this street that wealthy old families built their summer cottages, mansions designed by top New York architects, displaying all they had learned at the Ecole des Beaux-Artes in Paris. 

As the 20th century dawned, Newport was well into its decision to forego industry and commerce and embrace pleasure and recreation as its raison d'être. The city is preserved like few others, not a relic but a living, breathing place - casual but not exactly thriving - where the form, shape, and character of America’s earliest settlements is preserved, at full scale. It is a fascinating place to experience, again and again. I grew up near Newport, but didn't fully appreciate it until moving away, to upstate New York for college. Since then, since studying Newport for a class on American Town Planning taught by Professor Anne Munly at Syracuse University, I've been fascinated with the design of Newport for almost two decades - a lasting affection.